When I first started running beads with a stick welder, one of the biggest questions that threw me off was, “should you push or pull stick welding?” What seemed like a small detail quickly proved to be a make-or-break factor in weld quality. I’ve seen how pushing too much heat into thin sheet metal can blow right through, while pulling too aggressively on thicker joints can leave behind undercut or poor penetration.
The truth is, this choice ties directly into arc control, joint prep, filler rod angle, metal thickness, and even how you approach stainless welding compared to carbon steel. Many beginners mix it up with MIG vs TIG habits—where pushing can sometimes be useful—but with stick welding, the wrong technique can mean weak welds, wasted rods, and costly rework.
That’s why understanding whether to push or pull isn’t just about preference—it’s about strength, safety, and efficiency. In this guide, I’ll walk you through when and why each technique works so you can weld with confidence.
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What Does Push Mean in Stick Welding?
You’re holding your electrode at about a 10-15 degree angle, work lead clamped tight, and you’re ready to strike. Pushing in stick welding means you’re advancing the rod ahead of the weld pool, like you’re herding it forward. The electrode leads the way, and the molten puddle trails behind you. It’s a forward motion—think of it as shoving the arc into the joint.
This technique shines in spots where you need a wider, flatter bead. The heat spreads out more, covering surface area without digging too deep. I’ve used it on thin sheet metal repairs, like patching up an old Ford truck fender, where over-penetration would just burn through.
But here’s the catch: with stick’s flux coating melting into slag, pushing can leave you blind to what’s happening behind the rod. That slag floats up, but if you’re not careful, it rolls right into your fresh weld pool.
Pros of pushing? Better visibility ahead of the joint—great for tracking a straight line on long seams. And it can reduce undercuts on edges if your travel speed is steady.
Cons? Shallower penetration, which isn’t ideal for structural stuff, and higher risk of slag inclusions if the flux doesn’t clear properly. In my shop days, I’d only push on non-critical fillets, always double-checking with a chip hammer afterward.
How Does Pulling Work in Stick Welding?
Now, flip it: pulling, or dragging as we call it on the floor, has you working the electrode behind the weld pool. You strike the arc, then draw the rod toward you at that same 10-15 degree drag angle—typically 5-30 degrees back from perpendicular, depending on the rod. The puddle forms ahead, and you let it fill in as you retreat.
This is the go-to for stick because it gives you eyes on the bead as it cools. You see the ripple, spot any stacking, and adjust on the fly. Slag trails nicely behind, easy to chip off between passes. I learned this the hard way on my first overhead weld—pushing had me dripping molten iron on my boots, but pulling let me control the pool and keep it from sagging.
Why does it work so well? The drag angle pushes the arc force into the root, boosting fusion without excessive heat input. It’s forgiving for beginners, too—less spatter if your arc length stays short. Downside? On tight spots or overhead, it can feel cramped, and you might weave more to build width. But for flat and horizontal, it’s gold.
| Aspect | Pushing | Pulling |
|---|---|---|
| Weld Profile | Flatter, wider bead | Deeper penetration, stacked profile |
| Visibility | Good ahead of joint | Excellent on forming bead |
| Slag Control | Risk of trapping | Flows behind easily |
| Best For | Thin materials, surface coverage | Structural joints, multi-pass |
| Penetration | Shallow | Deep |
Why Pull When Stick Welding Produces Slag?
Stick welding’s flux isn’t just for show; it shields your puddle from air, but it leaves behind that glassy slag layer. The golden rule I hammered into apprentices? “If there’s slag, you drag.” Pushing shoves the electrode over the slag, and bam—it’s baked right into your weld, creating inclusions that weaken the whole thing. I’ve X-rayed enough rejects to know: those voids lead to cracks under fatigue, especially on high-vibe jobs like off-road rigs.
Pulling lets the slag float up and roll back, staying protective without contaminating. It’s about physics—the arc force from the drag angle shears the molten metal forward, keeping the pool clean. For AWS-certified work, this means fewer defects, tighter tolerances, and passing those bend tests without drama.
Think cost, too: trapped slag means grinding out and rewelding, eating time and rods. On a fab shop run, that adds up quick—I’ve burned through a 50-pound coil of 7018 chasing push mistakes. Pull it right, and your bead’s smooth, your cleanup’s fast, and your boss is happy.
When Should You Consider Pushing Your Electrode?
Okay, don’t toss the push technique entirely—there are spots where it saves your bacon. Vertical up welds? That’s prime push territory. By angling the rod slightly forward (maybe 5-10 degrees), you force the pool upward against gravity, filling the joint without runoff. I used this on a silo repair last summer—dragging would’ve let the iron cascade down like a bad fountain.
Also, on downhill runs with fast-freeze rods like 6010, a gentle push can speed things through thin pipe without blow-through. Or when you’re weaving wide on heavy plate, pushing evens the heat for less distortion. Just remember: adjust your angle to pseudo-drag—point the rod back toward you even as you advance, so slag doesn’t sneak in.
The key? Test on scrap. Fire up your Miller Bobcat, dial in 100 amps on DC+, and run beads both ways. Feel the difference in pool control. If your project’s low-stress, like a trailer hitch fab, push away. But for load-bearing? Stick to pull unless the position demands otherwise.
What’s the Best Rod Angle for Pulling Stick Welds?
Angle’s everything—get it wrong, and your arc wanders like a drunk apprentice. For pulling, start at 10-15 degrees back from perpendicular to the plate. That drag tilts the electrode toward your travel direction, focusing the arc cone into the root for max fusion.
On flat positions, bump it to 20-30 degrees for deeper digs with low-hydrogen rods. Overhead? Tighten to 5-10 to keep the pool from dripping. I once botched a beam cap by over-angling—got convex beads and cold laps. Fix? Practice on angle iron; mark your stinger with tape for consistency.
Tie it to your rod: cellulose like 6010 loves steeper drags for penetration, while rutile 6013 pulls smoother at milder angles. Always match to joint type—bevels need sharper for root access.
How Do Travel Speeds Affect Your Pull Technique?
Speed’s your throttle—too fast, and you get lack of fusion; too slow, and you burn holes. For pulling, aim for 4-8 inches per minute on 1/4-inch plate with a 1/8-inch rod. That lets the pool trail just right, slag clearing without stacking.
Slower on verticals (2-4 IPM) to fight gravity, faster downhill (10+ IPM) for thin stuff. I’ve raced downhill on fence posts with 6011 at 12 IPM—clean, no prep needed. But rush a multi-pass, and you’ll undercut the toes.
Pro tip: Listen to the arc. Steady sizzle? Good speed. Popping? Slow down. Crackling wild? Speed up. Pair with weave patterns—slight side-to-side at 1/2-inch amplitude keeps it even without overheat.
Common Mistakes with Push or Pull and Quick Fixes
Early on, I pushed a 7018 on a lap joint—slag trapped everywhere, bead looked like Swiss cheese after chipping. Fix? Always drag with hydrogens; they’re picky about cleanliness.
Another killer: inconsistent angle. You start pulling at 15 degrees, fatigue sets in, and it drifts to push—hello, porosity from air suck. Drill it: Set a 30-second timer on scrap runs, focus on steady drag.
Over-weaving’s sneaky—big S-motions while pulling stack the bead unevenly, leading to overlaps. Solution: Short whips, 1/4-inch max, pausing at the sides for tie-in.
And don’t sleep on arc length. Too long on pull, and you arc-blow the pool; too short, and it sticks.
Rule: Match rod diameter—1/8-inch rod, 1/8-inch gap. I’ve stuck more electrodes chasing ghosts than I care to count.
| Mistake | Why It Happens | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Slag Trapping | Pushing over flux | Switch to drag angle |
| Undercut | Fast travel on pull | Slow down, reduce weave |
| Porosity | Long arc length | Shorten to rod diameter |
| Lack of Fusion | Shallow push angle | Steepen to 20 degrees back |
| Sticking Electrode | Low amps | Bump 10 amps, clean work |
Which Stick Rods Work Best for Pulling Techniques?
Rods are your paintbrush—pick wrong, and no technique saves the art. For pulling, low-hydrogen 7018 is king: smooth arc, low spatter, deep penetration on clean steel. I swear by it for structural fab—pulls like butter at 120 amps DC+.
Cellulose 6010 digs roots like a badger, perfect for pipe pulls where you need that keyhole look. Downside? More spatter, so chip often. Rutile 6013’s forgiving for DIY—easy strike, good for overhead pulls without hydro oven fuss.
Match to material: 7024 for aluminum pulls on trailers, but watch heat input. Always store dry—moist rods pop and pit, ruining your bead. In the US, grab ESAB or Lincoln packs; they’re code-compliant and consistent.
Pros of 7018: All-position, strong welds. Cons: Needs oven, sensitive to rust.
Pros of 6010: Deep dig, fast. Cons: Slag’s tough to remove.
Setting Up Your Welder for Pull Stick Welds
Your machine’s the heartbeat—set it wrong, and no pull saves you. For DC electrode positive (DCEP) on most rods, start amps at 90-140 for 3/32-inch, scaling up for thicker. Volts auto-follow, but watch for 20-30 range.
Polarity matters: DCEP for 6010/7018 pulls deeper; DCEN reverses for cutting edges. On my Hobart Handler, I notch the dial for common pulls—110 for flat 7018, 100 for vertical.
Ground clean—clamp to bare metal, no paint. Extension cords? 10-gauge max to avoid voltage drop. Test strike on scrap: Smooth arc, no wild swings? You’re golden.
For inverters like the Miller Multimatic, enable hot start for easy ignitions on rusty pulls. And AC for 7018 on dirty farm steel—forgiving when DC fights you.
Preparing Joints for Stronger Stick Welds
Prep’s 80% of the game—skip it, and your pull’s wasted on garbage. Grind bevels to 30-37 degrees for V-grooves, root gap 1/16-inch for filler flow. Clean with a flap disc; no mill scale or oil, or hydrogen cracks your night.
For T-joints, feather the edges to avoid underfill. I’ve fabbed gates where lazy prep led to toe cracks—lesson learned: 80-grit grind, acetone wipe.
Fit-up tight but not kissing—1/32 gap breathes. Tack every 4 inches, alternating sides to pull straight. On thick plate, preheat to 150F for low-carb steels, easing the pull without distortion.
Safety Gear and Habits for Stick Welding
Safety ain’t optional—it’s the line between “good day” and ER visit. Leather jacket, FR pants, no synthetics; sparks love to melt sleeves. Gloves thick for stinger grip, but flexible for angle tweaks.
Helmet? Auto-darkening with shade 10-12 for pulls—clear view on the bead without flash burns. I’ve got arc-eye scars from flipping too slow; don’t join me.
Ventilate—fumes from flux are no joke, especially manganese in 6010. Use a fan or FumeKiller, and respirator if shop’s tight. Ground faults? GFCI everything; wet floors and 240V mix bad.
And earplugs—arc’s a jet engine. Habits: Clear space, no flammables, fire watch post-weld. Pull safe, weld strong.
Step-by-Step Guide to Nailing a Pull Weld
Ready to run one? Let’s walk it.
- Prep: Clamp work, clean joint, set amps (110 for 1/8″ 7018).
- Strike: Scratch or tap 45 degrees, pull to 10-degree drag.
- Establish arc: Short length, steady travel—watch pool trail 1/4-inch.
- Weave if needed: Slight figure-8, pause sides for fusion.
- End pass: Slow extinguish, chip slag hot.
- Inspect: Visual for uniformity, hammer test for soundness.
Practice on 1/4 plate—10 beads, tweak speed. You’ll feel the rhythm.
Pros and Cons of Stick Welding Techniques
Stick’s versatile, but push/pull sways the scales.
Push Pros: Quick coverage, less distortion on thin. Cons: Weak roots, slag headaches.
Pull Pros: Bombproof penetration, easy cleanup. Cons: Slower on wide areas, position fatigue.
Overall, stick beats MIG for outdoors—no gas woes in wind. But needs skill for pretty beads.
Real-World Applications for Push and Pull in the Shop
From my pipeline days to backyard builds, pull rules structural: Beams, frames under AISC codes. Push? Cosmetic trailers or quick fences.
On autos, pull fillets for chassis strength; push caps for bodywork. Codes like API 1104 demand pull for girth welds—deep ties save lives.
Hobbyists: Pull everything till certed; it’s idiot-proof.
Advanced Tips for Multi-Pass Pull Welds
Multi-pass? Layer like lasagna—root with 6010 pull, fill with 7018. Interpass clean to bright metal; no slag carryover.
Weave wider on caps for reinforcement, but stringer roots for fusion. Preheat caps at 250F for thick alloys, pulling slower to fuse.
I’ve stacked 20 passes on a 2-inch plate—key was consistent drag, cooling between.
Conclusion
Whew, we’ve covered the arc from basics to beads, but here’s the takeaway: for stick welding, pull your electrode 90% of the time to keep that slag honest and your welds tough. It builds integrity, saves rework, and lets you sleep knowing your fab holds. Whether you’re a student chasing certs, a hobbyist fixing the truck, or a pro under deadline, nailing this technique means confident strikes and zero surprises.
You’re better equipped now—grab that rod, set your angle, and drag a bead that’d make any foreman nod. Film your pulls on phone slow-mo; spot arc flickers early, fix ’em fast.
Is Pulling Always Better Than Pushing in Stick Welding?
Not always—push for vertical ups or thin downhill runs to control pool flow. But for slag control and strength, pull wins every time.
What Angle Should My Electrode Be for Pulling?
10-15 degrees back on flat, steeper 20-30 for vertical. Adjust per rod—steeper for deep-diggers like 6010.
Can I Push with Low-Hydrogen Rods Like 7018?
You can, but don’t—slag traps easy, leading to cracks. Stick to drag; bake ’em dry first.
Why Does My Pull Weld Have Undercuts?
Too fast travel or long arc—slow to 5 IPM, shorten gap to rod size. Weave less, focus stringers.
What’s the Best Amperage for Pulling 1/8-Inch Rods?
100-140 amps DC+ for 7018 on mild steel. Test on scrap; sticky arc means up 10, burn-through means down.
