One of the most frustrating moments I’ve had in the shop was running a clean bead on a piece of sheet metal when my Hobart welder’s wire feed suddenly started sputtering and surging. Everything was prepped—the joint was clean, the arc was steady, and I had my heat settings dialed in—but the wire just wouldn’t feed right. If you’ve welded for any amount of time, you know how critical smooth wire delivery is, whether you’re running MIG with gas, flux-core on thicker plate, or even switching between stainless and mild steel.
A bad wire feed doesn’t just make the weld ugly; it ruins penetration, wastes filler material, and can compromise the strength of the entire joint. That’s why understanding Hobart welder wire feed problems—and how to troubleshoot them—is so important. Stick with me, because in this guide I’ll share the exact fixes that have saved me time, money, and a lot of frustration in the shop.
Image by offerup
Why Wire Feed Problems Matter in MIG Welding
Wire feed issues in your Hobart welder aren’t just about the machine—they hit your work hard. A stuttering feed can cause porosity, where gas pockets weaken the weld, or lack of fusion that leads to cracks. For pros following AWS codes, that means failed inspections and rework. DIYers might end up with a rickety project that doesn’t hold up. And safety? Erratic feeding can lead to arc instability, increasing burn risks or even electrical hazards if there’s a short.
In my experience, these problems often stem from simple oversights, like not checking tension after swapping spools. But ignoring them costs time and money—think scrapped metal or buying unnecessary parts. Getting ahead of them ensures your welds are consistent, compatible with materials like mild steel or aluminum, and efficient on power and gas.
Common Causes of Hobart Welder Wire Feed Issues
Let’s break down what usually goes wrong with wire feeding in Hobart models like the 135, 140, or 170. These are MIG welders, using a continuous wire electrode fed through a gun, shielded by gas like CO2 or argon mixes.
One big culprit is overheating. The transformer can get too hot during long welds, tripping the thermostat and shutting down the feed. I’ve seen this on job sites with high-duty cycles—machine runs fine, then suddenly no feed, but the fan’s still humming.
Another is mechanical jams. Dirt, rust, or kinks in the wire spool clog the liner—the flexible tube that guides the wire from spool to tip. If your welder’s been sitting idle, rust builds up fast.
Electrical gremlins hit too—loose connections in the gun or whip, worn relays, or a faulty circuit board. I once had a 175 that intermittently stopped feeding; turned out to be a blown transistor from arcing at the diffuser.
Drive roll problems are common. Using the wrong size or type (V-groove for solid wire, knurled for flux-cored) can cause the wire to slip or get crushed, leading to erratic feed.
Tension settings matter hugely. Too loose, wire slips; too tight, it bird-nests—a tangled mess at the drive rolls.
Contact tips wear out, getting oval-shaped or spattered, causing burnback where the wire fuses to the tip.
Gun length and cable kinks add resistance, making the feed inconsistent.
Understanding these helps you diagnose quick, saving frustration.
Signs Your Hobart Welder Has Wire Feed Problems
Spotting issues early keeps small problems from becoming big ones. If the wire doesn’t advance when you pull the trigger, but gas flows and the solenoid clicks, it’s likely electrical or motor-related.
Erratic feeding—speeding up or slowing down—points to tension, drive rolls, or potentiometer issues on the speed control.
Bird-nesting happens when wire bunches up, often from over-tension or liner blockages.
Burnback leaves the wire stuck in the tip, usually from worn tips or a feed speed that’s too low.
Porous or weak welds signal inconsistent feed affecting arc stability.
If the feed stops mid-weld, check for overheating; the machine might need a cool-down.
I’ve had welds look like popcorn from feed hiccups—ugly and weak. Catch these signs, and you’re halfway to the fix.
Troubleshooting Hobart Handler 140 Wire Not Feeding
The Handler 140 is a workhorse for 115V setups, great for light fab or auto repairs. If wire won’t feed, start simple.
First, unplug and inspect the spool. Pull wire manually—does it move freely? If jammed, clean or replace.
Check tension knob. Set it so wire doesn’t slip but isn’t crushed. For .030″ solid wire, medium tension works.
Open the side panel, look at drive rolls. Are they worn or wrong type? Swap if needed.
Test connections: Wiggle the gun cable while triggering—intermittent feed? Loose whip wires.
For no feed at all, short the trigger leads to bypass the gun. If feed starts, gun’s the issue.
Use a multimeter for continuity in the whip. No reading? Broken wire.
If fan runs but no action, wait 10-15 minutes for thermostat reset.
I fixed a buddy’s 140 by just cleaning the liner—debris from old wire was the villain.
Fixing Wire Feed Problems on Hobart Handler 135
Similar to the 140, the 135 is compact for hobbyists. No feed? Check reset switch with ohm meter—should show continuity.
Test trigger switch—pull it, meter should beep.
Disconnect motor, apply 12V battery—if it spins, board might be bad; if not, motor’s toast.
Trace wires to board; look for burns or loose solder.
Common fix: Replace drive board if transistor’s fried from dirt in liner.
Don’t overlook PTC protector—it guards the motor from overloads.
I once tore apart my 135 thinking motor failure, but it was just a dirty liner slipping the wire.
Hobart Handler 170 Wire Feed Stopping Intermittently
For the beefier 170, intermittent stops often come from arcing at the nozzle-diffuser, melting parts.
Replace nozzle if worn—cheap fix.
Test motor with battery—works? Check board for blown transistors.
Gas valve clicking but no feed? Tension or jam likely.
Inspect diffuser for damage from arc.
If board’s obsolete, rebuild services exist—quick turnaround.
Prevent by regular consumable swaps.
My 170 quit mid-exhaust repair; new diffuser and clean contacts got it humming.
Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning Your Wire Liner
A clogged liner is enemy number one for feed issues. Here’s how to clean it.
- Unplug welder, remove gun from machine.
- Pull out old wire, disconnect liner at both ends.
- Blow compressed air through liner—wear eye protection.
- If stubborn, use liner cleaning tool or solvent-soaked rag pulled through.
- Reinstall, ensure proper length—too long causes kinks.
- Reload wire, test feed without gas first.
Do this every spool change; saves headaches.
I skipped this once, ended up with bird-nests ruining a whole afternoon.
Adjusting Wire Feed Tension on Hobart Welders
Tension’s Goldilocks—not too tight, not too loose.
Open panel, load wire through rolls.
Turn knob until rolls grip wire without deforming it.
Test by pulling wire from gun—should feed smoothly, no slip.
Start with light tension and increase until the wire feeds without slipping, regardless of wire type.
Wrong tension crushes wire, clogs tips.
Adjust per material: mild steel needs consistent feed for good penetration.
I’ve dialed this in countless times—makes welds bead up perfect.
Choosing the Right Drive Rolls for Your Hobart
Drive rolls match wire type and size.
V-groove for solid .023-.035″ wire—smooth feed.
Knurled for flux-cored—grips better.
U-groove for aluminum—prevents crushing.
Wrong roll? Slipping or peeling wire.
Hobart parts are easy to swap; keep spares.
Pros of right rolls: Consistent feed, less waste.
Cons: Cost if you buy wrong.
Table for quick ref:
| Wire Type | Roll Style | Size Range | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Solid Steel | V-Groove | .030-.035″ | Smooth feed, clean welds | Slips on flux-cored |
| Flux-Cored | Knurled | .030-.045″ | Strong grip | Can crush solid wire |
| Aluminum | U-Groove | .030-.040″ | Prevents deformation | Less common, pricier |
Pick based on your projects.
Dealing with Bird-Nesting in Hobart MIG Welders
Bird-nesting: Wire tangles at the drive rolls from resistance.
Causes: High tension, blocked liner, wrong rolls.
Fix: Release tension, clear tangle, clean path.
Prevent: Straight cable, proper setup.
I got a nest on a thin sheet job—lowered tension, problem gone.
Preventing Burnback in Your Welds
Burnback: Wire melts to tip.
From slow feed, worn tip, close tip-to-work distance.
Fix: Increase feed speed, replace tip, adjust distance 3/8″.
Use anti-spatter spray.
Keeps arc stable, welds strong.
Burnback ruined my first pro job—now I check tips daily.
When to Replace the Circuit Board or Motor
If basics fail, deeper issues.
Motor no spin with battery? Replace motor.
Board shows burns? Rebuild or new.
For older models, parts scarce—check Hobart dealers.
Cost: Board $100-200, motor similar.
Weigh vs new welder.
I rebuilt a board once—saved $300.
Safety Considerations for Wire Feed Repairs
Safety first—unplug before tinkering.
Wear gloves, eye protection—sharp wires cut.
Ventilate—fumes from testing.
Ground properly to avoid shocks.
Follow codes for electrical work.
Overheating can be a fire hazard—don’t override thermostats.
I’ve seen sparks fly wrong—stay safe.
Real-World Applications and Tips for Hobart Users
For farm repairs, consistent feed means durable fixes.
Auto work: Clean feeds for tight seams.
Hobbyists: Experiment on scrap.
Tip: Keep log of settings—wire speed, voltage for materials.
For mild steel .030″ wire, 18-20V, 200-300 IPM feed.
Joint prep: Clean edges for better fusion.
Filler: ER70S-6 for general steel.
Comparison of Hobart Models for Wire Feed Reliability
Hobart Handlers are reliable, but differ.
| Model | Voltage | Duty Cycle | Common Feed Issue | Fix Ease |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 135 | 115V | 20% | Intermittent stops | Easy, basic checks |
| 140 | 115V | 20% | Overheating | Moderate, cool-down |
| 170 | 230V | 30% | Board failures | Advanced, parts swap |
| 175 | 230V | 30% | Liner clogs | Easy, cleaning |
Choose per power needs.
Pros of Hobart: Affordable, parts available.
Cons: Older models obsolete parts.
Conclusion
You’ve got the lowdown on tackling Hobart welder wire feed problems—from spotting causes like tension mishaps or liner clogs to step-by-step fixes that get you welding again. Whether it’s a quick clean or a board swap, you’re now equipped to diagnose and repair with confidence, ensuring your welds are solid, safe, and efficient. No more wasted time or weak joints; grab your tools, test on scrap, and dive in. You’ll save money and build better projects.
FAQ
Why does my Hobart welder stop feeding wire mid-weld?
Often overheating trips the thermostat—let it cool 10-15 minutes with fan on. Check for clogs or loose connections too.
How do I fix bird-nesting in my Hobart MIG welder?
Reduce tension, clean the liner, and ensure straight cable. Wrong drive rolls can cause it—match to your wire type.
What’s the best wire feed speed for mild steel on Hobart 140?
For .030″ wire, aim for 200-300 inches per minute with 18-20 volts, adjusting for thickness and joint.
Can I repair a faulty circuit board on my Hobart welder?
Yes, if it’s a blown transistor, rebuild services can fix it. For obsolete boards, contact specialists for quick turnaround.
How often should I clean the liner in my Hobart welder?
Every spool change or monthly for heavy use. Blow with air and check for kinks to prevent feed problems.
I’ve seen references to a liner cleaning tool in several of these how-to posts. So far, no one ID’s the part # for the cleaning tool. Is there such a beast? Also, I’ve seen several references to, pulling a solvent-soaked rag pulled through the liner. First, no one ID’s the best solvent for the task. Second, I defy anyone to pull a solvent-soaked rag through the liner. Please help.
Totally fair questions 🙂
1. “Liner cleaning tool” & part number
There isn’t one special Hobart-only “liner cleaning tool” with a magic part number. When people say that, they usually mean:
A generic MIG liner cleaning brush (long flexible wire with a tiny brush on the end), or
Just using compressed air blown through the liner from one end to the other.
Most of the time, air is what does 90% of the work.
2. Solvent-soaked rag through the liner
You’re right: you’re not dragging a normal rag through a skinny liner. What folks actually do (if they bother with solvent at all) is:
Use a very small patch of cloth on a thin wire/cord or on the end of a small brush,
Lightly dampen it with a fast-evaporating solvent (like acetone or alcohol), then pull/push that through.
Even then, for most DIY and shop use, the practical approach is:
Step 1: Blow it out well with clean, dry compressed air.
Step 2: If it’s still rusty or gritty or feeding like trash, replace the liner. They’re relatively cheap and save a lot of headaches.
You’re not crazy at all – a lot of those “just pull a rag with solvent through” tips are oversimplified. In real life: air first, liner replacement if that doesn’t sort it.